How To Change Plugs On 07 Dodge Ram On Driver Side

I saw a bunch of questions about this only didn't run into an actual thread on doing this. I refuse to pay my dealer $400 for this and this should be done every 30k on 2013 and older Hemi'southward.

The drivers side was somewhat hard merely non bad. The brake booster is in the style but it'due south not that bad. I started with this side because I figured it was the worst side. However I had a much harder time with the last cylinder on the passenger side.

There's a huge wiring harness going from the pcm plus 2 heater core hoses right over cylinder eight. You tin unclip the hoses and the wiring harness to somewhat move them out of the fashion but there'due south withal not much room.

I used the Mopar NGK plugs and got them on Amazon: Gear up of 16 Chrysler Jeep Dodge Ram v.7 Liter HEMI NKG Spark Plugs Mopar https://world wide web.amazon.com/dp/B00LME0BQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bu1jzbVV0TCPQ

Supplies used:
Nickle Antiseize compound
Dielectric grease
old coating
spark plug gap tool (to verify .043 gap)

Tools used:
5/8 spark plug socket
v/viii deep socket
2 3" extensions
1 1.5" extension
i universal joint adapter (didn't end up using this)
Minor telescoping magnet

I let the truck sit down overnight so it was stone cold. Always a good idea with aluminum heads. Kickoff by blowing the engine off. Yous definitely don't want dirt and debris getting inside the combustion bedchamber. Once you get the coils off blow the spark plug Wells out again to make sure they're clean. I started with the rear cylinders first. You take to lay over the engine to reach the rear cylinders which is what you lot need the coating for.

Coils come off easy as at that place is dielectric grease on them from the factory. The plugs themselves came out surprisingly hard and we're making a scary squealing noise. This is probably due to my truck sitting a lot and it being outside 24/7 and then do you look this. I did one cylinder at a time to minimize the chance of dirt getting in the combustion chamber. You will need the spark plug socket to remove the plug or the telescoping magnet to remove the plug is yous're using a regular deep socket.

My plugs have well-nigh 28600 miles on them and all came out looking great with normal wear on them then if yours expect like the picture your engine is running fine.

When installing new plugs, put a *light* smear of antiseize on the threads and a dab of dielectric on the end of the plug the ringlet attaches to. For the cylinders with trivial clearance, carefully drop the plug into the well, and so drop the regular deep 5/8 socket, then a 3" extension, and then the 1.5" extension. I rotated the plug counterclockwise until they I clicked to ensure they weren't crossthreading. That would be a bad day. Then torque to 13 ft/lbs or approx 157in/lbs. In that location are shell washers on the plugs that crush before finally seating. Before reinstalling the whorl, put a dab of dielectric grease in the terminate of the kick to ensure they don't seize to the plug over time.

Echo 15 more times and you're done.

Things to notation:
Exist care while laying on the engine with a blanket over it. In that location'south lots of small-scale plastic things that can get cleaved. A layover creeper would be ideal for this job. 2014+ trucks with Platinum plugs, I would still pull the plugs out and antiseize at thirty-40k of you programme on keeping the truck.

Not a bad job at all and an piece of cake way to save $340. Hope this helps someone!